São Paulo Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2010 Highlights
The most compelling shows from Latin America’s premier fashion event
For this season of the most important fashion event in Latin America, Felipe Meres of the São Paulo-based site Made-Up Disease selected the most compelling, ravishing and innovative shows for Cool Hunting.
Alexandre Herchcovitch Womenswear
Inspired by ethnic East European garments, Alexandre Herchcovitch’s excellent F/W 2010 collection will also be presented at New York’s upcoming Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. The collection features rich embroidery, gorgeous patterns and unique textures created with exuberant materials.
Ornamented with gems, ruffles and other details, the details help define the theme of the brilliant pieces. However, Herchcovitch, a master of integrating contrasting elements, also found places to imprint notorious ingredients from his repertory, such as punk references, plaid patterns and colorful digital prints.
As usual, impeccable tailoring was present throughout. We must stress the marvelous maxi-sequin-covered manteaux, the finale that perfectly synthesizes the collection’s theme and the designer’s consecrated style.
According to Oskar Metsavaht, Osklen’s director, past summer collections inspired the brand’s winter line.
The main concept came through quite clearly in extremely well-defined, geometric structures and solid, three-dimensional shapes. Patterns were slowly introduced after numerous monochromatic garments, with strong, square-shaped shoulders as a focal point. We loved the swimwear-inspired pieces, as well as the sleeveless dresses, long skirts, large hoods, hotpants and men’s shorts. Large backpacks, as well-structured as the outfits, anchored several looks.
Osklen delivered all of the key elements that the brand is known for: sophisticated minimalism, impeccable architectonic constructions and its own mix of global references that we like to call “carioca-japonism chic.”
Swimwear brand Rosa Chá reaped the benefits of having designer Alexandre Herchcovitch as their new creative director. The F/W 2010 collection offers a fresh approach to beachwear, going way beyond traditional design with pieces that mix lingerie and sportswear.
Those attending New York’s Fall 2010 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week will have the opportunity to see this beautiful collection that includes impeccably constructed bodysuits, high-waist bikinis, and even black dresses. They also showed nude and flesh-colored items to their SPFW runway, adding an extra boudoir touch.
During the second half of the show, digital neon patterns illuminated pieces, playing up the sporty feel of the looks. Transparent materials, visible zippers, lace, silk, strategically-positioned ruffles and crystal appliqués added to the show’s fetishistic feel.
Herchcovitch clearly remained faithful to his personal style and creativity throughout the development of his first Rosa Chá collection, with little consideration to the label’s previous identity. That makes us wonder what the future holds for Rosa Chá as an independent fashion brand.
Macro and Micro (Nature loves to hide itself) was the theme chosen by Glória Coelho for her F/W 2010 collection. The motif exudes clean energies, quantum physics, lights and architecture.
The show featured several beautiful dresses made with tulle, organza, satin and neoprene—which certainly suits the designer’s remarkable style. Highlights include materials and textures resembling particles seen through a microscope; broad satin stripes assembled as to create interesting architectural silhouettes; as well as dresses and capes made of translucent stripes, all of which carried the brand’s identity.
In a show composed essentially by conceptual pieces, a series of dresses made by thin, horizontally intertwined satin stripes created unexpected volumes, was refreshing. Adorned with ostrich feathers, rich textures and silhouettes characterized the final looks.
Neoprene shoes in vivid colors, as well as beautifully transparent stockings with bright lines down the front and back made for creative styling resources, adding to the presentation’s futuristic/Sci-Fi atmosphere.
André Lima
Speaking of over-the-top garments, we definitely have André Lima in mind. The last designer to present his creations at SPFW, Lima is renowned for his party dresses and for his notable aptitude in developing exuberantly chic pieces with strong colors and audacious volumes.
Flawless outfit construction characterized his F/W 2010 collection, as did the rigid architectural design integrated into the brand’s identity. The resulting extravagant creations appeal to the daring women.
Beautiful juxtapositions of textures and colors reward such boldness, a look created by a designer who has mastered the art of blending decadence and contemporaneity without tacky results.
Huis Clos
Huis Clos, like few other brands this season, presented a collection in mostly light and neutral colors. We liked the sophistication and lightness of the looks, and also by the brand’s unique ability to create timeless pieces.
The excellent quality of the materials, along with delicate design and perfect molding of the pieces, emphasize details that add even more charm to the looks.
Exploring minimal and classical forms, creative director Clô Orozco and head designer Sara Kawasaki were able to add golden embroidery, as well as strategically placed volumes and textures to the garments without letting go of the brand’s sheer elegance. Huis Clos presented a beautiful, cohesive line with classic, sophisticated simplicity.
