M.Nii

The quiet history behind Hawaii's bespoke Makaha Drowners

Anyone who’s surfed Makaha knows the waves there are as rough as the locals who run the beach they crash on. Located about 40 miles west of Waikiki, this Oahu outpost is the birthplace of big wave surfing, a phenomenon that began in the 1930s and gained full speed shortly after the end of WWII. While today the area is notoriously ruled by territorial Hawaiians, …