Cooper & Thief’s Complex, Non-Traditional Wines

Using unconventional barrels, the brand crafts a niche product worth savoring

Unlike more traditional winemakers, the team behind Lodi, California’s Cooper & Thief prove particularly fond of breaking conventions, all while employing centuries-old techniques. The wines they produce can still file under well-known categorical styles—Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Red Blend—but the spirit with which they produce wines could not be more different than conventional wineries in Napa and Sonoma. Though one of their three wines …