Marta’s Custom Wood-Fire Grills Evoke Brilliant Flavors

Executive chef Lena Ciardullo explains why wood fire is crucial to the Manhattan restaurant

Inside the near triple-height ceilings of The Redbury Hotel New York‘s Marta (an Italian restaurant from the Danny Meyer-owned Union Square Hospitality Group), ample airspace allows for the smoke of two wood fires to dissipate. One fuels the restaurant’s pizza oven. The second keeps the grill, cooktop, and convection chamber face-meltingly hot. Behind both, on most nights, is executive chef Lena Ciardullo. “Wood fire is …