New Cookbook “Korean American” Boldly Disrupts the Culinary Canon

Author and chef Eric Kim tells us about the power of surprising flavors and what it means to be Korean American

When food columnist Eric Kim published his second article with The New York Times, he broke out in hives. The article “was about banchan (the collective name that refers to side dishes in Korean cuisine)—a harmless piece,” Kim admits. “But because I was so worried about upsetting Korean people, I got shingles.” His nervousness was not unfounded. In the past, when Kim published his recipes—which …