Unlike any other professional sport, surf competitions, especially big-wave surf competitions, require a literal perfect storm of conditions. Swell height and intervals, wind speed and direction, tidal shifts and weather—they all must align for a contest to be greenlit. Once the call goes out, the cadre of invitees and alternates from all over the world board last-minute flights, scramble for rental cars and descend upon …
Professional Surfer Kai Lenny on Routine, Fear and Big Waves