From Yamazaki to Hakushu: Exploring Suntory’s Single Malt Distilleries
Witnessing the nature that envelops the birthplaces of Japanese’s prestigious whiskies
Trekking the Kentucky Bourbon Trail or carving along the Highlands of Scotland on a scotch whisky tour, expert and novice travelers observe that distilleries differentiate themselves through water, wood and their particular method in bringing it all together. Thousands of miles from those well-traveled routes, and separated by a four-and-a-half hour drive through the Japanese countryside, Suntory‘s Hakushu and Yamazaki distilleries do much the same. Only, they’re nestled within dramatic natural beauty one will only find on the island nation. And, in the way that terroir impacts wine, it becomes impossible to separate the surroundings from the liquid produced at these locations.
It’s unfair to reduce the efforts of the Yamazaki distillery to a handful of descriptive paragraphs. The transformation from carefully produced components into the range of single malts involves the eyes, noses and tongues of many—something evident in every visit. Even then, there’s an alchemy that elevates this parts into their age statement 12, 18 and 25 year whiskies. The current Yamazaki Mizunara 2017 Edition epitomizes these efforts.
To reach the staggering beauty of the Suntory Hakushu Distillery, one must travel up to 700 meters in elevation. In a nook at the base of the Southern Japanese Alps, several buildings—including many aging warehouses—sit along footpaths. There’s a bird sanctuary on the grounds—and plentiful water sources. In fact, the soft mineral water is so good that Suntory first developed the site as a water-bottling facility. Here, in the forests below Mt Kaikomagatake, peated single malt barley from Scotland transforms into a smoky Japanese single malt.
These aren’t the only two distilleries in Suntory’s portfolio—their Chita location, founded in 1972, produces a grain whisky that factors into many of their blends, including the Highball-ready releases Toki and Hibiki Harmony. But these two facilities embody the ethos of the brand at its founding and today. Perhaps they also contributed to the rising acclaim of Suntory’s single malts. Both destinations are open to visitors, but even if one can’t make their way to Japan, in knowing of them it’s possible to taste their majesty and meticulousness in the spirits themselves—even if it’s poured around the perfect ice ball.
Hero image of the Hakushu Distillery courtesy of House of Suntory
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