Olivier Gantenbein on Bucherer Masterworks, Community and the Art of Time
Where haute horlogerie meets identity, dialogue and the evolving culture of collecting
In the world of fine watchmaking, there are few initiatives that approach timepieces with the same reverence and curiosity as Bucherer’s Masterworks. Positioned not only as a showcase of haute horlogerie but also as a cultural platform, Masterworks treats watches as more than instruments of time, seeing them instead as works of art and windows into craftsmanship, heritage and individuality. At the center of this vision is Olivier Gantenbein, Bucherer’s Global Associate Director of Haute Horlogerie, whose own path from watchmaker to collector liaison to strategist mirrors the duality of the field itself: technical mastery paired with emotional resonance. In our conversation, he reflects on how Masterworks is building community across cities like New York, London, Geneva and Berlin, and why the dialogue around watches matters just as much as the watches themselves.
You’ve hosted collector dinners and events around the world. What’s the most memorable encounter you’ve had that shifted your perspective on what watches mean to people?
What struck me most wasn’t tied to a single encounter but to the shared passion I saw again and again. Whether someone owns one rare piece or a collection of ten, what unites them is the way they truly live with their watches. Time isn’t just measured, it’s appreciated. A watch becomes more than an instrument; it becomes a work of art imbued with personal meaning.
You trained as a watchmaker in some of the most intricate movements, yet found yourself equally drawn to the world of collectors and sales. Do you see that as two parallel careers—or one continuous exploration?
For me, it’s been one continuous path, just seen from different vantage points. I began with the technical side, working on high-end movements and developing a deep respect for the artistry behind each mechanism. Later, moving into sales and community-building allowed me to merge that knowledge with direct engagement: hosting collector dinners, listening to what drives people and understanding their emotional connections. Now at Bucherer, those experiences coalesce. My role overseeing Haute Horlogerie and Masterworks strategy lets me bring the technical, the communal and the client perspective together into a single vision.
Masterworks presents watches as cultural objects as much as technical marvels. How do you define that point where mechanics transform into art?
The beauty is that the boundaries blur. A groundbreaking complication, a new material, an unexpected design—each can be art in its own way. What matters is creating space to share and exchange these discoveries with clients. That dialogue is where mechanics meet culture.
Bucherer describes Masterworks as a “space for encounters.” Beyond the timepieces, what conversations do you hope unfold there?
The most interesting conversations often begin with the question: Which watch best reflects who you are? From there, it naturally expands into personal style, lifestyle, taste and character. A watch should express far more than hours and minutes. It should tell you something about the person wearing it. That’s when the conversation leaves the realm of watchmaking and enters the broader world of refinement and identity.
Many of the pieces in Masterworks are exclusive to Bucherer. When you’re curating, is it more about innovation, heritage or that ineffable “spark?”
It’s always a mix. Each watch must stand strongly on its own, but the full portfolio needs to feel balanced and alive. Innovation, heritage, artistry and that indescribable spark all have to be present, woven together in a way that feels inspiring for the client.
You’re speaking to seasoned connoisseurs and curious newcomers at the same time. How do you keep the magic alive for both without diluting the experience?
In my view, it’s actually quite natural. Both audiences are looking for masterpieces. A carefully curated selection appeals to each, just in different ways. And when a newcomer and a connoisseur start exchanging perspectives, that’s when things get interesting. One gains invaluable insights, the other a fresh lens. Those exchanges are often the most inspiring moments.
Masterworks now exists in New York, London, Geneva and Berlin. How does the character of each city shape the way you tell the story?
Every Masterworks is designed for its environment. Some locations are grand and expansive, others more intimate. The portfolio also shifts slightly market to market; it’s never identical, but always curated with the same standard of excellence. The local spirit influences the mood, but the vision of fine watchmaking as art remains constant.
You’ve been described as someone who doesn’t like to be boxed in. Looking ahead, where do you want to push the boundaries of Masterworks—and of haute horlogerie itself?
A big focus is continuing to strengthen the community we’ve built—uniting like-minded collectors and enthusiasts across our five Masterworks markets. At the same time, I believe haute horlogerie, though rooted in tradition, has enormous potential to expand. Technology allows us to engage with collectors globally and to showcase the artistry of “Masters at Work” in ways that are both innovative and timeless. For me, the future is about honoring tradition while reimagining how we share it.
Masterworks, at its core, reframes watches as cultural connectors, objects that link tradition with innovation and collectors with one another. Olivier Gantenbein embodies that spirit of connection, bringing the meticulous eye of a watchmaker and the sensitivity of a community-builder into harmony. Under his vision, Bucherer isn’t just curating rare timepieces; he’s cultivating conversations, relationships and perspectives that keep haute horlogerie alive and evolving.
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