Revealed this week in Milan, the Fall/Winter 2012 collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills marks the continued evolution of the brand, whose soaring reputation is owed—at least in part—to Mark McNairy‘s stellar direction over the past year. This collection draws inspiration from Civil War relics and Sergio Leone’s Spaghetti Western style in “The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly.” The colors and contrast bear McNairy’s signature styling while the fabrics and tradition stay true to the Woolrich heritage.
The look is somewhat reminiscent of a Mark Twain character transplanted to a Milanese showroom. Floppy fishing caps and brightly-hued anoraks hint to southern river-boat fashion, the corduroy suiting and rebel soldier blazers more appropriate for a debutante ball. For the materials, McNairy sourced historic wool patterns, occasionally revamping them with saturated blues and oranges. The collection dances between youthful prepster abandon and grandpa’s dusty armoire, an odd brew but one that plays out well.
We were taken by the elegantly executed digital camouflage plaid. The wool backpacks are also fairly stylish, particularly when paired with a matching wide lapel sport coat. While the look book aligns with the classics, McNairy takes some risks in fitting button down oxfords and cargos with contrast pockets. As always, Woolrich stands behind their dedication to domestic fabrication, all items hand finished and made in the U.S.A.