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Word of Mouth: Downtown Portland

With a renewed focus on luxury, craftsmanship and natural inspiration, Portland’s downtown area makes its mark

The backs of several people standing on a lookout point, looking out onto a view of downtown Portland with Mt Hood in the background.
Photo by Justin Katigbak

The urban oasis of Portland, Oregon is known for its natural beauty, award-winning restaurants, countless bridges and of course, tax-free shopping. But during the pandemic, like many mid-sized cities, its downtown area was hit hard as businesses shuttered and people sheltered in place. Now, thanks to ongoing citywide revitalization efforts and a devoted community with some serious hometown pride, downtown is officially back on the map. 

While the majority of city dwellers live across the Willamette River on the east side (Portland’s divided into quadrants—NE, SE, NW, SW), the downtown area where SW and NW converge boasts world-class art, delicious eats and new luxury lodging options like The Ritz-Carlton. There’s a major focus on downtown economic growth; it’s the future site of the James Beard Public Market, slated to open in 2027, which will celebrate Portland’s culinary excellence and host over 40 small businesses.

As for getting there, Portland’s more accessible than one might think. PDX is an Alaska Airlines hub averaging over 100 departure flights a day. Alaska is a popular choice for many west coast markets, but with an ever-expanding route schedule, including three new European destinations as of May 2026, we caught an easy direct flight from JFK. 

We spent a few sunny days—and one rainy afternoon, let’s be honest—walking around downtown Portland and its nearby areas. Here’s some of our favorite places we visited.

  • The bar at Meadowrue with long green plants hanging down and a bartender making a drink.
  • A guest room at The Ritz-Carlton, Portland with white bedding, a tan bench and nature-inspired wallpaper, looking out onto a large window with a view of the hills.
  • A long wood communal table with large gray and glass stairs behind it.
  • An exterior view of The Ritz-Carlton, Portland with a view of Mt Hood in the background.
  • An indoor infinity pool with views of sky and buildings out the tall glass windows.
  • The retail area at The Ritz-Carlton Spa, Portland with white furniture, plants and sun streaming in through the windows, illuminating a collection of beauty products.
The Ritz-Carlton, Portland

Opened in October 2023, the 35-story hotel brings a much-needed dose of high-end luxury to the downtown scene with a design narrative that quietly nods to Portland’s landscape and history. From smooth tree stump tables that reference its “Stumptown” nickname—Portland was a logging town back in the mid-1800s—to a custom hallway carpet inspired by aerial views of the nearby Willamette, the inviting space evokes a sense of distinctly upscale, yet accessible, comfort. The guest rooms and communal spaces, designed by ROAM Interior Design, have a very Pacific Northwest vibe: wood details, warm copper tones, hidden crystals in the lighting and plants everywhere. And on a clear day, guests can catch a glimpse of Mount Hood—Oregon’s highest peak—from the upper floors.

Adjacent to the lobby area, Meadowrue is the perfect spot for a unique cocktail and snack, or if you have the time, an unforgettable 12-course Omakase tasting menu. The Japanese-inspired restaurant almost feels like a cozy forest with its trailing plants, terrariums and comfy seating options. When we stopped by Meadowrue’s long communal table, we enjoyed a wine tasting hosted by Alloro Vineyards, one of the winery participants (along with Ponzi Vineyards and Durant) of The Winemaker’s Table, a Ritz-Carlton-curated excursion of the agriculturally rich Willamette Valley.

The 19th floor’s wellness center, Cloudbreak on Nineteen, boasts more epic views and includes the Technogym-equipped Fitness Center, the Hidden Mountain Lake Infinity Pool with floor-to-ceiling windows, and the The Ritz-Carlton Spa, Portland. Treatments include ultra-luxe facials, massages, nail services and more, but if you want to take your healing up a notch, book a private sound bath session. The eucalyptus steam room is divine, and the snow shower offers a gentler version of a cold plunge for cooling down. After your service, check out the spa’s retail area with its custom-made products and fresh-air terrace, or grab a hibiscus tea and light bite in the relaxation lounge.

  • An exterior view of a red sign with a large gray "P" that reads "Portland Art Museum" below it, with a group of children in the background.
  • The glass Mark Rothko Pavilion at the Portland Art Museum with people walking nearby.
  • A nighttime shot of the Portland Art Museum with a large, illuminated gold ring sculpture in front of the entrance.
Portland Art Museum

A short walk along the historic South Park Blocks leads to the Portland Art Museum, a world-class, inclusive art space highlighting retrospectives by individual artists, group shows and traveling global exhibitions. What was once two separate buildings—the Pietro Belluschi Building and the Mark Building—has now been architecturally joined with the striking new Mark Rothko Pavilion. The four-story, 24,000-square foot modern glass structure opened to the public in November 2025 after almost 13 years of planning, and it now functions as a light-filled, dual-sided museum entrance while the added terrace and interior gallery spaces enhance the experience for its art-loving visitors.

It’s tricky to pick a favorite from our day at PAM. We love the new Black Art and Experiences Galleries that showcases large-scale tactile works by Lisa Jarrett, a Mickalene Thomas video installation and Black Arts PDX, a deep dive into the history of Black visual arts in Portland. The colorful and inspiring David Hockney exhibit features both swimming pool paintings and digital works from the past 20 years, while the Fourth Floor to Mildness by Pipilotti Rist invites visitors to lie down under organic-shaped screens and immerse themselves in the waterscapes projected above. Try a light lunch and a slice of the picturesque Rothko Cake at on-site cafe Coquelico, or the nearby Behind the Museum Cafe offers a range of authentic Japanese teas and treats.

  • A flat garden and pavilion at Portland Japanese Garden with a weeping cherry willow in the foreground.
  • The intersection of two pavement styles in the Portland Japanese Garden, surrounded by green plants and trees.
  • A view of the Zig Zag Bridge with koi swimming in the pond below.
  • A stone meditation garden with carefully raked stones in a spiral pattern wrapping around large stones.
  • An autumn view of the Strolling Pond Garden at the Portland Japanese Garden.
  • The Tea House at Portland Japanese Garden with lush green trees in the background.
Portland Japanese Garden

While it might not technically be located downtown, the Japanese Garden is more than worth the uphill walk or the shuttle bus ride through Washington Park. Opened in 1967, the five-plus-acre wonderland was designed by Professor Takuma Tono of Tokyo Agricultural University. Uncommon at the time, he intentionally included five styles in the design as a way to honor the evolution of Japanese landscape architecture. With its meandering walking trails, bridges, waterfalls, koi ponds and countless meditative moments, it’s the perfect place for a solo break from the bustling downtown blocks below. Multiple locals recommended we come back for another visit in a different season—from the early blooms of verdant spring to the vibrant maples in fall, the gardens invite visitors to slow down, take a breath and observe the delicate cycle of life and growth. The Kengo Kuma-designed Cultural Village, opened in 2017, expanded the Garden’s footprint with three LEED-certified structures built to harmonize with the landscape while highlighting the Japanese arts for the many thousands of annual visitors.

On the walk back to town, don’t forget to stop by the International Rose Test Garden, a garden originally created in 1917 to test different hybrids during World War I that now boasts over 600 varieties of roses. A stroll through the organized beds during peak bloom makes it obvious why Portland’s also called “The Rose City.”

  • An interior shot of MILWORKS with an antique American flag hanging on the wall, vintage shelving and racks of clothing.
  • An interior view of MILWORKS, looking towards the cash register and the street window, with a large indigo textile hanging on the wall.
  • A detail of a hand-painted window sign that says "Milworks--FINEST CLOTHING--Portland, OR Milwaukee, WI.
MILWORKS

Originally launched in Milwaukee by a group of friends and fashion industry veterans in 2016, MILWORKS‘ Downtown Portland location, opened in late 2024, thoughtfully curates pieces from the world’s best high-quality, slow fashion brands. From Japanese denim favorites like Edwin Japan to American icons like RRL and Levi’s Vintage Clothing, the store favors an industrial heritage design ethos, and every piece of clothing, footwear, home good and apothecary item aligns with its “rugged yet refined” philosophy. The light-filled corner storefront has tall ceilings, antique ephemera and indigo textiles that encourage passersby to come in and explore the craftsmanship behind some of our favorite brands.

  • A pulled out view of the Bellpine dining room with multiple seating options, carved wood ceiling panels and the open kitchen at the far end of the room.
  • A view into the private dining room at Bellpine with carved wood wall and ceiling panels, a long dining table with white chairs, and a light fixture that resembles a group of jellyfish.
  • A collection of several plated dishes, a glass of wine, a bowl of apps and a candle in a gray glass holder at Bellpine.
  • The lounge area of Bellpine with curved stone walls, a fireplace and carved ceiling panels that resemble a ship or animal ribs.
  • A colorful plated meal from Bellpine shot overhead on a white plate.
Bellpine

Located on the 20th floor of the The Ritz-Carlton, signature restaurant Bellpine offers fresh Pacific Northwest cuisine through a Mexican lens, thanks to Chef de Cuisine Jocelyn Chacón, who joined the team in early 2026. The newly launched menu is organized by category—Sea, Soil, Land and Fire—and highlights craft dishes, seasonal produce and a 300-plus bottle list from Oregon and Washington’s top wineries.

“Oregon is home to some of the most incredible produce I have ever worked with, from the freshest seafood to foraged mushrooms,” Chef Chacón says. “This menu is my way of celebrating that through the techniques and flavors I grew up with.” Standout dishes include the Crispy Albacore Tacos, Habanero-Agave Glazed King Salmon and Cacao-Rubbed Wagyu Coulette, although every bite we tasted was memorable and truly delicious.

Bellpine’s wraparound views highlight the city skyline and Mount Hood, while the multi-layered interiors, also by ROAM, reference Oregon’s rugged coast. From the deep blue upholstery and strategic use of local stone, to the rib-like, carved wood ceiling panels and light fixtures that resemble a swarm of jellyfish, every design decision takes an aesthetic cue from the color palettes and organic textures of the surrounding area.

  • A view of Frances May shot from the back of the store, looking out at the cash register, racks of clothing along the wall, a large paper globe light and the large front doors of the space.
  • A display at Frances May with a brown dress and a hanging rack of shoes.
  • A rack of colorful clothing at Frances May and a glass and wood table with other soft goods artfully arranged.
  • An upstairs level at Frances May with a large leather sofa and a vintage arched wood cabinet.
Frances May

Owner Pamela Baker-Miller first opened Frances May 18 years ago in a small West End space with her grandmother. The shop was launched on the belief that style is an extension of art, curiosity and a sense of discovery, and it originally featured pieces by eight fashion designers. After years of growth, several moves and many lessons learned, its permanent downtown home, an iconic pink marble four-story building, was established in summer 2023. “That move changed the trajectory of our small shop into something more like an independent department store,” Baker-Miller says. “In this larger space, we’re able to host events, trunk shows, collaborative brand experiences and art exhibitions.”

Laid-back cool brands like Rachel Comey, Ganni, and A.P.C. mingle with upscale basics from Baserange, Jungmaven and Comme Si, while the Colibri Flowers pop-up shop offers a daily selection of fresh floral arrangements. During our springtime visit, we particularly enjoyed the natural element-inspired art show Precious Sediments and the Wilma Mezzanine Residency, offering an amazingly chic curation of vintage furniture and objects for sale.

  • An exterior corner view of Powell's Books in Portland, with a red awning above the store entrance and a large vertical sign hanging from the corner of the brick building.
  • An interior shot of Powell's Books with many light wood shelves, books and high industrial-style ceilings.
Powell’s City of Books

A downtown Portland visit simply isn’t complete without a visit to Powell’s. The space, which opened in 1971, can’t be missed—it’s the world’s largest independent bookstore and it spans an entire city block. The 68,000-plus-square foot store sells both new and used tomes, magazines, journals, stationery and more, plus it hosts a variety of literary and community-oriented events. There’s four floors, multiple wings and it’s easy to get turned around, so it might be helpful to look at a store map as you plot out your visit. From science to fiction, young adult to poetry, there’s truly something for everyone here. We liked the walls of staff recommendations and used bestsellers that helped guide us to the perfect purchase. If a smaller shop is more your style, try nearby Word Virus Books, which specializes in literature and the arts, or Grand Gestures Books, a Queer Black woman-owned store that focuses on the romance category.

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