Word of Mouth: Isle of Skye
Spots to eat, drink, sleep, play and linger between exploring the storied island
Connected to the mainland by the Skye Bridge or via ferry from Mallaig, Isle of Skye is Scotland‘s most accessible island in the Inner Hebrides (Na h-Eileanan an Iar in Gaelic), an archipelago of 15 inhabited and 50+ uninhabited islands off the country’s west coast. Given its accessibility, it’s also one of the most visited—and for good reason: not only are the landscapes otherworldly, there are plenty of places to eat, drink and sleep that offer a welcome reprieve from days well spent in the weather and the wilderness. Whether you drive over the bridge or ride the scenic train from Glasgow to Mallaig—one of the most spellbinding rail journeys in Europe—making your own itinerary while visiting Skye is the best approach; there are so many spots to chat with locals and marvel at the nature constantly enveloping you. Be sure to make incidental stops whenever the mood or views demand it, but these recommendations are TBD-jumping-off points for a memorable road trip around Skye.
The Bracken Hide
Just outside Portree, The Bracken Hide comprises 45 standalone wooden cabins scattered across a hillside. Because the main building (housing the restaurant, bar, lounge and reception) and carpark are located below, each of these cozy cabins benefits from blissful quiet. Rooms are snug, but each one has its own en-suite, heated flooring and private patio (as well as a pod coffee machine, fridge, TV and safe). There are also practical touches like trays for muddy footwear and a heated towel rail for drying damp socks. The lower hides are easier to access than those higher on the hill, but if you’re tired, less mobile or carrying luggage, the staff will drive to your door in the fleet of golf carts. The restaurant serves up breakfast classics, while the bar provides a cozy spot to try a long list of whiskies, Scottish gins, cocktails and mocktails while playing chess and other board games. There’s also a wild plunge pool on the grounds—right next to saunas for warming up.
Birch Coffee
In the middle of Portree is a little slice of Australia, at Birch, where owner Niall Munro was inspired by Melbourne cafe culture. Beyond really good coffee, pastries and avocado toast, Birch serves sit-down brunch (beetroot and whipped goat cheese on toast, sweet potato stew, and tasty vegetable soups) and a host of take-out sandwiches worth packing for a trek up Old Man of Storr—or wherever your day takes you. The day might take you right around the corner to Òr, a store selling ceramics, art, jewelry, homeware and other items, including exclusive collaborations with local designers.
The Hungry Gull
If you spent a few hours hiking the stunning Quiraing, there’s a 50/50 chance of turning right toward Staffin (and maybe the Staffin Sea Sauna)—and if you do, The Hungry Gull is the perfect place to stop for lunch before driving on to Kilt Rock, An Corran Beach or another postcard viewpoint nearby. During the day, this walk-in cafe and community space can get busy due to its reputation for excellent, creative takes on classic comfort food—think curried veggie soups, fish sandwiches, vegan haggis, big breakfast platters and more. There are quite a few vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options at this laid-back cafe too, and make sure to peruse the ever-changing dessert options for a sweet treat.
The Three Chimneys
In Colbost, The Three Chimneys offers some of the best food on the island, all focused on hyper-local seafood and produce. Options include lunch, dinner and the kitchen table experience—a group experience for eight located within the restaurant kitchen. Each exquisite tasting menu is made with the utmost respect for local fishermen, crofters, growers, and foragers—and the seasonal produce they provide—with every dish coming with a detailed explanation of the ingredients’ origins. At night, the drive home will be dark and the sun-warmed one-track roads are often an appealing place for sheep to snooze—so if you’re able to stay the night, your trip home can be just meters away at House Over-By, overlooking Loch Dunvegan.
Stein Inn
The oldest inn on Skye, The Stein Inn was built in 1790 and is located about a 30-minute drive from Colbost and Portree. With a focus on hyper-local seafood (the lobsters, mussels, langoustines, and crabs come from Loch Bay just meters away), they offer pub fare made using fresh produce in a lively, kid- and dog-friendly space. It’s the perfect place to have lunch or dinner when visiting Coral Beach, Dunvegan Castle or nearby Skio Pottery.
Scorrybreac
Known as a fine-dining restaurant, this Portree venue also has a little cocktail bar upstairs for those who just want an impeccably-made drink. Whether infusing gin with foraged flowering currants or garnishing drinks with rhubarb from the garden, the staff here takes care to imbue a little local lore into every sip. This small space doesn’t take reservations for drinks (only dinner), and it’s a stylish, snug place to enjoy a beverage while looking out at the Portree harbour.
What are your thoughts?